Theodore Roosevelt National Park, North Dakota

TUE., JULY 18 thru THUR., JULY 20, 2023

Back on the road again today, Tues., July 18 (2023) after being parked for six weeks in Rapid City, South Dakota. We traveled 265 miles north to Medora, ND to see Theodore Roosevelt National Park. It was a  beautiful ride into North Dakota with empty roads for part of the trip. We also saw cattle “bonding together.” They do this for protection against pesky flying insects. We passed acres of blooming Black Mustard with its brilliant yellow color. Just beautiful. We drove through part of Teddy Roosevelt NP to arrive at Medora Campground. We’re here for 3 nights before moving on. And we have a new state to add to our collection… I think we’re at 42… or is it 43…. I walked the campground that first evening and enjoyed views of the Little Missouri River. 

 

On Wed., July 19th (2023), we spent the day exploring the South Unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park. It’s the largest of the park’s three units. Its 46,000 acres of sprawling badlands and 11 miles of the Little Missouri River which support a rich diversity of life. We stopped at the Visitors Center and did the 48-mile scenic drive stopping at various overlooks and doing some hiking. 

We heard a “young Teddy” talk about his first visit to North Dakota. He came here to kill a bison. He did that and fell in love with the area. Then came back to heal after his wife and mother died on the same day in February 1884. 

There was a historic cabin (called Maltese Cross Cabin) that a young Teddy spent time in. It was quite upscale as cabins go with 3 rooms, wooden floors and a root cellar. It was made of sturdy ponderosa pines which is the main reason why it still exists today.

Gary & I climbed Wind Canyon Trail to get the best view of the Little Missouri River. As the name implies, the trail faces into the prevailing wind, and the sandstone walls in the wind-sculpted canyon become eroded.

Teddy so loved this area that it started him on a journey of conservation when he became President. He worked with Congress to create 5 National Parks, 150 National Forests, and dozens of federal reserves –  over 230 million acres of protected land on his watch. Impressive. But this National Park bearing his name wasn’t created under him. It was established in 1947 as a National Memorial Park then later became a National Park in 1978 under Carter.

 

On Thurs., July 20th (2023) we visited Painted Canyon also part of the South Unit at Teddy Roosevelt NP and on the upper margin of the Badlands. It is one of the prettiest spots in the park with its canyon walls of multi-colored layers of clay, sandstone, and red rock with black coal veins running through the formations. We hiked the 1 mile “moderate” Nature Trail that drops down to the canyon floor with steep stairs down and up. My legs felt that one the next day. 

Afterwards we headed into the cute town of Medora. Population 100+. The town was given a new lease on life by Harold Schafer, the founder of Gold Seal (Glass Wax and Mr Bubbles fame), who was from North Dakota and wanted to revitalize the town. I remember using Glass Wax to make stenciled Christmas decorations on the windows when I was a kid. That was his brain child as a way to promote sales of the product in the winter.

He put many millions into the town and then established the Theodore Roosevelt Medora Foundation so the town can live on into perpetuity. It’s a “company town,” but in this case the company is a non-profit. Fascinating and entirely unique. 

There is a new very large TR Presidential Library being built, which opens in 2026. There is currently a small one in town.

In the evening we attended the Pitchfork Steak Fondue Dinner which is the thing to do in Medora. The steaks are “fondued” or cooked in an open fire on pitchforks. We ended up sitting with a family of four… a brother and sister and their spouses. One of the couples owned a ranch with 900 head of angus cattle located 90 miles from town. So cool to chat with them! Dinner was followed by the Medora Musical… all outdoors and with a view of the Badlands. The setting was the showstopper! But we were entertained before the musical began with watching two cowboys on horseback try to relocate a very large bull elk off the ridge. Wow. We’re definitely out west! 

A very fun time spent exploring this unique National Park.